Wednesday, June 28, 2006

Beefed Up!

Christie's Jamaican Patties
334 Flatbush Ave (at Sterling Pl) [map]
Brooklyn, NY 11238
718.636.9746

For forty years, Christie's has been selling the greatest beef patties imaginable, flakey yellow pockets stuffed fat with meat and wrapped in butter-drenched coco bread, out of a little triangular storefront on Flatbush Avenue. They have jerk chicken, meat loaf, and vegetable patties too, and they all cost less than $2. It's $2.50 if you want the coco bread. Then a few weeks ago, I heard Christie's was closing. My instinct was to panic, but when I investigated it turned out that Christie's was just moving across the street, a whole half-block closer to my apartment. I breathed a sigh of relief and ate six beef patties.

As the celebratory patties digested, however, I was left with an unpleasant feeling that had nothing to do with eating too much. Christie's has to move because the new Crunch gym next door is forcing them out. If Christie's hadn't gotten lucky and found a new location on the same street, those amazing patties would have disappeared forever. This near-disaster didn't just remind me to eat more Jamaican food; it reminded me that no matter how much you might enjoy keeping your favorite hidden place a secret, don't. Tell everyone you know. Paul Haye agrees. He's a big Jamaican guy with a sweet salt and pepper mustache, and his family has owned Christie's since 1965. I sat down to talk with him about Brooklyn, the new store, and secret recipes.

How are your beef patties so good?

PH: We've been making beef patties for forty years. When we first opened the store, we were literally the only business on the block. A gentleman by the name of Mr. Brown made the recipe for us. We wanted a variation of the traditional patties, and through experimentation we came up with this one.
Patties keep warm in the current Christie's window.

Is it a secret recipe?

PH: It's a zealously guarded trade secret. But the main reason for the patties' success is that we've restrained from mass production. You know, in forty years we had a number of opportunities to take it really big, but we decided not to. Because once you go beyond a certain volume, you have to get into preservatives. We make everything fresh here every morning. Nothing is ever frozen. Every day we get sixty-five pounds of beef and sixty-five pounds of chicken. That's all we make, and we go through all of it every day.

How do you feel about the move to the new store?

PH: It's not by choice, but we plan to make the best of a bad situation. We plan on experimenting with some new patties. We're going to make a callaloo patty, which is type of Jamaican spinach. We're thinking about soy patties.

Soy patties?

PH: Soy patties and steamed vegetables. People are trying to eat healthy, and we're going to give it to them with a Jamaican flair. We're experimenting with a lot of exciting stuff. We're going to have Jamaican style fried chicken, wings, and a whole line of fresh homemade juices.

Besides having to move, what do you think about the way the neighborhood is changing?

PH: Greater economic activity is good, but what has always made Brooklyn unique is this rich flavor. There's all kind of people in this neighborhood, and it's an open-minded group of people. If there's something new, people will try it, and if they like it, they will support it fiercely. I love this neighborhood and this community, but it's already begun that the big bland corporations are coming in, displacing the mom and pop stores, and replacing them with the same kind of stores New Yorkers are accustomed to. I don't think it's a plus if Brooklyn becomes another Manhattan.

Have you ever thought about raising prices on the patties?

PH: We had to raise it by fifty cents a few months ago, but it was very reluctantly. We don't want this to be a gourmet kind of a place. We want it to be an informal place where people can come and talk and have a good time.

What's your favorite patty?

PH: My favorite has always been the jerk chicken, to be honest with you.

Yeah.

Tuesday, June 27, 2006

Free Coffee, 2-4pm!

From the good people shamelessly promoting The Devil Wears Prada. I love how they cleverly toy with our self-esteem: "It's time for the nation's beleaguered workforce" - awww - "to catch a break on their own special day!" Yayyyy! And then, like a good matriarch, The Devil Wears Prada declares a national holiday!

'CATCH A BREAK' THIS TUESDAY WITH THE DEVIL WEARS PRADA NATIONAL COFFEE BREAK DAY Overworked Java-Lovers Invited to Take a Much-Deserved Break June 27!LOS ANGELES, June 23, 2006…It’s time for the nation’s beleaguered workforce to catch a break - on their own special day. On June 27, the new motion picture The Devil Wears Prada invites office employees across the country to enjoy a free coffee beverage, between 2:00-4:00pm, at a specially selected cafe or market in their area. In recognition of overworked assistants everywhere, The Devil Wears Prada declares it National Coffee Break Day.

Cafe Duke 1450 Broadway Ground Floor
The Grand Cafe 230 Park Ave
Cafe Express 348 7th Ave
Toasties at Union Square 25 Union Square West
Headline News 250 Broadway
Headline News 770 Broadway
Headline News 111 8th Ave
Benvenuto Caffe 950 Broadway
Klatch 9-11 Maiden Lane
Kudo Beans 49 1st Ave

Thursday, June 01, 2006

Tang Tang Noodle

1328 Third Avenue [map]
New York, NY 10021
212) 249-2102

FACTS

Cuisine: Chinese, Dim Sum, Noodles

5 words: Fluorescent-lit neighborhood noodle house.

Hours: 7 days; 11:30am-11pm

Delivery: Yes - $7 min ($15 min over 10 blocks)


PICKS

Enjoy: Cantonese wonton soup with roast pork, turnip Cake, BBQ spare ribs, roast pork bun

Avoid: Steamed short rib in black bean sauce


In a neighborhood where Chinese food options can be limited and disappointing, Tang Tang Noodle's menu hides authentic Chinatown dim sum in an uptown General Tso disguise. Look past the standard approximations of Chinese grub - the orange beefs and chow funs in the paradoxically-titled "Specials" section - to the more authentic dim sum and BBQ items. And, of course, the noodles.

Tang Tang serves what is referred to on US menus as "Hong Kong style" food; dishes typical to the southern Chinese Canton region, where ingredients and spices are diverse, and dim sum, slow-cooked broths, and roasted meats are popular. On the dim sum end, Tang Tang offers an impressive roster of fried or steamed buns and dumplings filled with shrimp, seafood, vegetables, or pork. Steamed little juicy buns with pork ($4.75) are savory and juicy, though the shell was slightly overcooked one night, which made it gummy. Vegetable dumplings ($3.75, pictured below), on the other hand, were consistently succulent and tender.

Tang Tang's roast pork buns ($1.25) are softball-sized pillows stuffed with sweet, slow-cooked pork chunks, and turnip cake (two for $2.50) is a mild, pan-fried patty with a similar texture to polenta, served here with thick sweet plum sauce. The real stars of this menu, though, are the barbecued meats. BBQ spare ribs (small $6.50, large $9.50) are served alone, with a traditional sweet red braise, while the same roast meat is amazingly tender in wonton soup ($4.95, below), where it is allowed a long, slow boil after roasting, and accompanies egg noodles, slippery wontons and crisp flash-boiled greens. The title dish, Tang Tang noodles ($4.75), is pretty much a nest of noodles in a big tub of tasty broth with a couple of spring onions and mushrooms thrown in. Nothing earth-shattering, but there's something to be said for a five-dollar dish that easily serves three.

The dining room is a tiled, fluorescent-lit square with a brightly uninteresting view of Third Avenue, and servers are sort of charmingly inconsistant - one night, for instance, we got juicy pork buns instead of vegetable, and our server attempted to deny the presence of vegetable buns on the menu. Tang Tang is an awesomely unpretentious and satisfying Low Brow haven in the cheap food wasteland of the Upper East Side.

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